Pink Zebra Beauty – Pet Tarantula Care Guide
What is a Pink Zebra Beauty?
Scientifically named the Eupalaestrus campestratus, the Pink Zebra Beauty is widely known as one of the best tarantulas to keep as a pet spider. It is comparatively gentle and calm and quite tolerant of handling. Female specimens can live up to 20 years and male specimens can live up to 7 years. They are very hardy and with proper care are unlikely to die before reaching the end of their lifespan.
Like other New World spiders, this tarantula’s primary mode of defense is the hairs that populate its body. All tarantulas are “hairy” but different spiders use their hairs (more formally called “setae”) for different purposes. The three main uses of their setae are for stridulation, sensation, and urtication.
Stridulation is usually a defense mechanism, but some species use it for sexual communication1. Spiders can use specialized, barbed hairs to create a hissing sound2 as a warning to deter predators. Other sensitive hairs are used to detect vibrations in the environment or to detect chemicals; essentially, to smell3. Urticating hairs are usually longer and are easily detached. The barbs on each hair are irritating to the skin, eyes, ears, nose, and mouth of potential predators.
Due to their docile nature, however, most pet owners don’t need to worry about the Pink Zebra Beauty showering them with irritating hairs. A bite from this gentle bug is even more rare than a use of their urticating hairs and, were it to happen, would hurt little more than a bee sting. As with any other insect though, it is possible for a human to be allergic to spider hairs and venom and thus it’s important to not unduly provoke the E. campestratus.
What habitat does the Pink Zebra Beauty thrive in?
E. campestratus is native to the central parts of South America. Specifically, it can be found in Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina4. This area ranges from a tropical savannah to a more temperate forest, to a dryer mediterannean climate. Overall, however, the area lacks a dry season and thus the humidity stays moderately high year-round5.
To replicate this environment, you will need to start with a reasonably large terrarium, somewhere between 5-10 gallons. The amount of floor space available is more important than height as these spiders are short and prefer to stay on the ground6.
For substrate, the Pink Zebra is not particularly picky, peat moss or potting soil would work perfectly. Since this tarantula enjoys burrowing, there should be around 4 inches deep worth of substrate in the enclosure6. The Pink Zebra is not overly shy or skittish so having areas to hide is not essential; however, having bark, rocks, and other decor can help the spider begin the construction of its burrow. It is also important to include a bowl of water somewhere away from the burrow both for hydration purposes and to help maintain the humidity.
Temperature and humidity are one of the most essential parts of any tarantula enclosure. The E. campestratus does best in temperatures between 75-80 ℉ and humidity levels between 65-75%7. As a beginner species, however, the temperature and humidity aren’t hard and fast rules. This spider is used to heavy rain and low degrees of protection; thus, it is a rather hardy species. In general, lower humidity is better than high humidity so that mold and other such problems don’t develop8.
Where can I get a Pink Zebra Beauty?
The E. campestratus is a slightly challenging spider to obtain due to its popularity. Until recent years, it was not readily available as most of these spiders used to be captured in the wild. Now they are bred in captivity, they are cheaper and more accessible7.
There are many places that now sell Pink Zebras. Local pet stores may have them but they are also available through many online stores. The price per spider ranges between $30-70. Food and habitat supplies can also be obtained either through a pet store or online. While this specific spider requires less than more exotic species, a spider-owner will still need adequate supplies to care for it.
How and what should I feed my Pink Zebra beauty?
These spiders do best with moderately-sized livefood such as crickets, moths, or mealworms. Aim to feed your spider a couple insects once a week. Whether the spider does or does not eat the prey, it is important to remove the carcass or live bug so that the tarantula does not become stressed. The have been many cases in which the prey has injured or even killed a tarantula, so protecting the E. campestratus involves introducing livefood with care. Once a month, the insects can be traded for a pinky mouse to give the spider some variety6.
How should Pink Zebra Beauties be handled?
Even though the E. campestratus is hardy and even-tempered, handling should be avoided unless it is completely necessary. It may be cute and fuzzy with those pink hairs but, like all other tarantulas, the E. campestratus is easily stressed by interactions with humans. They are also susceptible to injury and death from falling. Their abdomens are heavy, delicate, and unprotected. Like a water balloon, even if they fall from a short height, they can burst immediately upon impact with the ground. While the Pink Zebra is less likely to squirm out of your hands than other species, it’s best to avoid the risk and keep cuddling to a minimum.
Before picking up any tarantula, it is a good idea to test the spider’s temperament. The Pink Zebra Beauty is nearly blind and thus cannot initially differentiate between your finger and a cricket. You can test the spider’s mood by gently prodding the spider’s abdomen with a pen or a stick. If the spider turns around and attempts to grab the tool, it is not a good day to pick up your tarantula. If the spider is overly skittish and immediately hides upon the touch, it is also not in a good mood for handling. However, if the spider only moves forwards slightly away from the touch, it is likely in a viable mood for handling.
The best way to pick up the E. campestratus is to gently pinch the abdomen at a point between the second and third set of legs. Another method is to scoop your hands around the spider, gently getting the legs onto your hands until the whole spider is sitting there and can be moved. The key to both of these methods is to remain patient and to not rush it. Some individuals in this species can be more skittish than others and making any spider hurry could lead to it injuring itself.
For your own safety, it’s also important to remember not to touch your face directly after handling a tarantula. The urticating hairs, when they come in contact with your nose, mouth, or eyes, can be painful and extremely irritating. Also, make sure to wash your hands after handling the E. campestratus.
What is the temperament and behavior of Pink Zebra Beauty like?
Tarantula enthusiasts generally agree that the E. campestratus is the most docile species. However, all spiders are their own individual and each spider will have its own personality. One Pink Zebra Beauty may be completely friendly and calm while another might be skittish and shy. There is no guarantee for any tarantula’s behavior and characteristics just like there is no guarantee that certain dogs, cats, or even people will act in the way we expect.
That being said, the E. campestratus is one of the more predictable species. They are slow-moving and non-aggressive. For spiders, they are considered quite friendly. The E. campestratus is nocturnal though, so don’t expect to see your fuzzy friend out much if their enclosure is brightly lit. In the wild, the E. campestratus spends most of the night hours outside their burrow waiting for prey9. If you want to observe your tarantula more often, keep the enclosure in a dark space while you are awake so that your spider is more likely to venture out.
Because this spider is non aggressive, it’s main defense mechanism is running and hiding. As a slow spider though, it prefers the latter. Some tarantula owners complain that this species is especially prone to becoming a “pet hole.” This is a term that hobbyists use to describe when their pet tarantula elects to dig a burrow and then rarely, if ever, emerge. This somewhat annoying behavior is likely the worst that a Pink Zebra Beauty will do. It is essential to avoid bothering the spider while it is in its hiding place. Even this docile species can grow stressed and irritated upon being poked and prodded in its safe space. The best way to have your pet hole return to being a pet tarantula is to leave it alone and to make its environment safe, dark, and quiet.
How can I breed a Pink Zebra Beauty?
Breeding the E. campestratus involves a similar process to breeding any other type of tarantula. First, to prepare the female for mating, ensure that it is well-fed10. This will help it to be in a positive mood as well as decrease the likelihood that it will eat the male. It is also important to keep track of when the female has last molted. If it has not molted within the last 6 months, it will usually refuse to mate. This is due to the long length of time a female requires to form its egg sac and the fact that molting removes the sperm from the female’s body rendering it infertile.
All tarantulas are cannibalistic and usually aggressive with eachother, thus it is important to closely supervise the introduction between the female and the male. If the female is not interested in mating, it will likely eat the male or both spiders may end up fighting and becoming injured. Keep an eye out for aggressive behavior such as raising the front legs and showing their fangs, running at the other spider, or hissing.
To introduce the male and female, you must always take the male and put it in the female’s enclosure, otherwise cannibalism is likely to occur11. The female needs to feel as comfortable and as unthreatened as possible. Place the male on the opposite end of the enclosure from the female and let it approach.
The male will begin a drumming behavior that involves hitting the substrate with the front legs and pedipalps. Sometimes it will also vibrate its body in an effort to attract the female’s attention. If the female E. campestratus is interested, it will reciprocate the drumming action and the two spiders will cautiously approach each other11. If communication is successful, the male will grapple the female using “spurs” on its front legs and slip underneath the female’s abdomen in order to provide insemination.
The mating ritual can take multiple hours and it is important to closely supervised so that the two do not fight or attempt to eat the other. To make sure that the female has been successfully inseminated, it is a good idea to introduce the two Pink Zebra Beauties to each other multiple times so that there are plenty of chances for the male to deposit sperm.
After the mating sessions, make sure that the female is well fed so that it can create the egg sac. Expect it to take between 6-7 months for the female E. campestratus to begin making an egg sac12. This is a rather variable time period and is dependent on how much the E. campestratus is being fed and whether the humidity levels in the enclosure are ideal. As the spider gets closer to creating the egg sac, its abdomen will begin to swell, it will start digging in the substrate, and it will lay webbing down rather thickly in one part of the terrarium.
While the female is creating and guarding the egg sack, it is essential that the enclosure is left undisturbed. The female E. campestratus will destroy or eat the eggs if it feels like the environment is not safe for spiderlings or if it has not been fed well enough in the previous months. Do not feed the mother but always make sure there is enough water. After 10 weeks, the eggs will seem to develop legs and move into the nymph stage of development. At this point it is best to remove the nymphs from the mother.
When the nymphs molt, they will look more recognizably spider-like and will be in the spiderling stage. Spiderlings are cannibalistic and should be separated into their own small enclosures. The baby Pink Zebra Beauties will eat any insect smaller than them usually around 3 days after their last molt. Pinhead crickets or fruit flies work well as food. The E. campestratus is an especially slow-growing spider, so be prepared to wait a long time before each molt and don’t expect to see much immediate growth.
Why should I choose a Pink Zebra Beauty over other beginner species?
There are many different species that are recommended for beginner tarantula-keeping hobbyists. Among those (in addition to E. campestratus) are the Mexican Red Knee (Brachypelma smithi), the Honduran Curly Hair (Brachypelma albopilosum), the Greenbottle Blue (Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens), the Pink Toe (Avicularia versicolor), and the Brazilian Black (Grammostola Pulchra).
Out of all these species, the Pink Zebra Beauty is the most docile, calm, and slow. The Honduran Curly Hair and the Brazilian Black both have similar temperaments, but the Pink Zebra Beauty remains the calmest. The Honduran Curly Hair is more active than the E. campestratus, sometimes using its urticating hairs to ward off unwanted handling, and the Brazilian Black can be an aggressive eater which may be frightening or result in the spider mistaking hands for food.
The Mexican Red Knee is significantly more defensive than the E. campestratus as it tends to use its urticating hairs more often and is thus prone to developing a bald spot on its abdomen. The Greenbottle Blue and the Pink Toe are both beautiful and very active spiders, but both are exceedingly skittish compared to the E. campestratus. The Pink Toe is also an arboreal tropical spider and requires more upkeep in terms of a constant temperature and humidity and enclosure decor.
Below is a summary description of spider traits that beginners are most likely to care about. The Pink Zebra Beauty is certainly one of the easiest on the list in terms of care, temperment, and handleability but it also does not do a whole lot, nor is it as bright and shiny as other species. However, if you’re looking for an easy and quiet pet to begin your tarantula-keeping hobby, the Pink Zebra Beauty might just be the perfect bug.
Beginner Spider Comparison Chart
|
| Pink Zebra | Red Knee | Curly Hair | Greenbottle | Pink Toe | Black |
| Temperament | very calm and docile | docile but defensive | calm and docile | docile but very skittish | docile but very skittish | calm and docile |
| Handleability | easy | more challenging | moderate | do not handle | do not handle | moderate |
| Ease of care | easy | easy | easy | easy | moderate | easy |
| Activity | low | low | high | high | moderate | low |
| Coloration | dull | bright | dull | bright | bright | shiny |
Sources Cited
1. Lima, Arthur Galleti, and Jose Paulo Leite Guadanucci. “Morphology of setae on the coxae and trochanters of theraphosine spiders (Mygalomorphae: Theraphosidae).” The Journal of Arachnology, vol. 46, no. 2, 2018.
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6b3-wELoOU
3. https://www.tarantulaheaven.com/the-anatomy-of-tarantula-paws/
4. https://wsc.nmbe.ch/species/37415
5. Beck, H.E., Zimmermann, N. E., McVicar, T. R., Vergopolan, N., Berg, A., & Wood, E. F. – “Present and future Köppen-Geiger climate classification maps at 1-km resolution”. Nature Scientific Data.
6. http://www.tarantulapets.com/eupalaestrus-campestratus-pink-zebra-beauty/
7. http://www.petbugs.com/caresheets/E-campestratus.html
8. http://www.tarantulapets.com/tarantula-cages/
9. Barneche, Jorge and Ferretti, Nelson. “New Species of Eupalaestrus from Argentina (Araneae, Theraphosidae, Theraphosinae)”. Centro de Estudios Parasitológicos y de Vectores.
10. https://www.wikihow.com/Breed-Tarantulas
11. https://www.giantspiders.com/captive-care/breeding/
12. http://www.tarantulas.co.za/breeding-reports/59484-pink-zebra-beauty-eupalaestrus-campestratus
